01 January 2005

Distant Horror

News of the outside world arrives slowly if at all, usually via the disembodied crackling of BBC World News swimming in and out of audible tuning.

Catching a line to the Internet is equally haphazard so I content myself with snatched glimpses of headlines off old Herald Tribunes or Telegraphs: the horror and devastation of the tidal wave seem incalculable.

  • Is the UN in trouble *yet* again with some comment on the US's stinginess?
  • I imagine the B-Team trio of Bush, Blair and Blunkett are sighing - or weeping, in the case of the blubby Blunkers - with relief at Mother Nature's calamitous power distracting world attention from their own.
  • Has a video of Usama Bin Laden yet surfaced showing the wiley towel-head at the controls of a wave-making machine and warning us that the tsunami was just a warning shot across the bows?
I feel out of touch.

Then today's emails beings a text copy of an interesting piece by the ever-authoritative Simon Winchester:

"LIKE two bookends of calamity, earthquakes at Bam in Iran and off Sumatra in Indonesia have delineated a year of unusual seismic ferocity - a year, one might say, of living dangerously. Twelve months, almost to the very hour, before Sunday's extraordinary release of stress at the India-Burma tectonic plate boundary, a similar jolt at the boundary of the Arabian and the Eurasian Plates devastated one of the most celebrated of Persian caravan cities. The televised images of Bam's collapsed citadel and the sight of thousands of bodies being carried from the desert ruins haunted the world then just as the images of the drowned around the shores of the Bay of Bengal do today.

But that has not been the half of it. True, these two disasters were, in terms of their numbers of casualties, by far the most lethal. But in the 12 months that separated them, there have been many other ruinous and seismically ominous events, occurring in places that seem at first blush to be entirely disconnected.

This year just ending - which the all-too-seismically-aware Chinese will remind us has been that of the Monkey, and so generally much prone to terrestrial mischief - has seen killer earthquakes in Morocco in February and Japan's main island of Honshu in October. The Japan temblor left us with one widely published image - of a bullet-train, derailed and lying on its side - that was, in its own way, an augury of a very considerable power: no such locomotive had ever been brought low before, and the Japanese were properly vexed by its melancholy symbolism.

In America, too, this year there have been some peculiar signs. Not only has Mount St. Helens been acting up in the most serious fashion since its devastating eruption of May 1980, but on one bright mid-autumn day in California this year the great San Andreas Fault, where the North American and Pacific Plates rub alongside one another, ruptured. It was on Sept. 28, early in the morning, near the town of Parkfield - where, by chance, a deep hole was being drilled directly down into the fault by geologists to try to discern the fault's inner mysteries.

The rupture produced a quake of magnitude 6.0 - and though it did not killanyone, it frightened millions, not least the government scientists who have the fault in their care. They had expected this particular quake to have occurred years beforehand - and had thought a seismic event so unlikely at the time that most were at a conference in Chicago when it happened. They rushed home, fascinated to examine their instruments, but eager also to allay fears that their drilling had anything to do with the tremors.

As every American schoolchild knows, the most notorious rupture of this same fault occurred nearly a century ago, at 5:12 a.m. on April 18, 1906 - an occurrence now known around the world as the great San Francisco Earthquake. An entire city, a monument to the hopes and dreams of America's westward expansion, was destroyed by a mere 40 seconds of shaking. It was an occurrence possessed of a historical significance that may well be matched by the tragedy now unfolding on the far side of the world.

But, curiously, it turns out that there were many other equally momentous seismic events taking place elsewhere in the world in 1906 as well. Ten weeks before the San Francisco quake there was one of magnitude 8.2 on the frontier between Colombia and Ecuador; then on Feb. 16 there was a violent rupture under the Caribbean island of St. Lucia; then on March 1, 200 people were killed by an earthquake on Formosa; and then, to pile Pelion upon Ossa, Mt. Vesuvius in Italy erupted, killing hundreds.

But even then it wasn't over. The grand finale of the year's seismic upheaval took place in Chile in August, a quake that all but destroyed the port of Valparaiso. Twenty thousand people were killed. Small wonder that the Chinese, who invented the seismograph and who tend to take the long view of all historical happenings, note in their writings that 1906 was a highly unusual Year of the Fire Horse, when devastating consequences are wont to abound, worldwide.

Given these cascades of disasters past and present, one can only wonder: might there be some kind of butterfly effect, latent and deadly, lying out in the seismic world? There is of course no hard scientific truth - no firm certainty that a rupture on a tectonic boundary in the western Pacific (in Honshu, say) can lead directly to a break in a boundary in the eastern Pacific (in Parkfield), or another in the eastern Indian ocean (off Sumatra, say). But anecdotally, as this year has so tragically shown, there is evidence aplenty.


Plate tectonics as a science is less than 40 years old. It is possible that common sense suggests what science has yet to confirm: that the movement among the world's tectonic plates may be one part of enormous dynamic system, with effects of one plate's shifting more likely than not to spread far, far away, quite possibly clear across the surface of the globe.. In recent decades, thanks largely to the controversial Gaia Theory developed by the British scientists James Lovelock, it has become ever more respectable to consider the planet as one immense and eternally interacting living system - the living planet, floating in space, every part of its
great engine affecting every other, for good or for ill. Mr. Lovelock's notion, which he named after the earth goddess of the Ancient Greeks, makes much of the delicacy of the balance that mankind's environmental carelessness increasingly threatens. But his theory also acknowledges the somber necessity of natural happenings, many of which seem in human terms so tragically unjust, as part of a vast system of checks and balances. The events that this week destroyed the shores of the Indian Ocean, and which leveled the city of Bam a year ago, were of unmitigated horror: but they may also serve some deeper planetary purpose, one quite
hidden to our own beliefs.

It is worth noting that scientists have discovered that the geysers in Yellowstone National Park started to erupt much more frequently in the days immediately following a huge earthquake in central Alaska in 2002. There
turned out to be a connection, one hitherto quite unrealized, that intimately linked places thousands of miles apart. Geologists are now looking for other possible links - sure in the knowledge that if real geological connections can be determined, then we may in due course be able to divine from events on one side of the planet indications that will allow us to warn people on the other - and so perhaps allow them to prepare, as those in today's Indian Ocean communities never were able, for the next time.

For one thing is certain, and comfortless: on earth, eternally restless and alive, there will, and without a scintilla of doubt, be a next time."

Simon Winchester is the author of "Krakatoa: The Day the World Exploded, August 27, 1883."


28 December 2004

ITALY

4-day hiatus for travel from Corfu to Tuscany. See elsewhere for fotos.

Dec 23: Left Corfu 0730 on Minoan Lines' Pasiphae. Huge boat with bars and restaurants and shops galore and - everywhere - smokers galore - in the window seats, in the cafe and restaurants, everywhere. After breakfast next day, I'd noticed the ashtrays but hesitated to believe they'd be put to actual use. Not at all: no sooner had my breakfasting neighbours finished their croissants and started on their coffee than out came the cigs and the room was soon fuggy with baccy fumes. Lovely.

Arrived Venice 0730 and there was Pete on the quai.

Irrelevant 'thinks' ref Aphorisms and Don Paterson's "Book of Shadows"

  • "The present tense in English is too sibilant to be of much use to poets"
  • "If only poets and novelists could be translated into musicianhood ... we'd see the vast majority, after only a few notes, revealed as a bunch of desperate scrapers without a tune in their heads or the rudiments of technique. God, the time we'd save."
  • "Such is E's need to be loved, he experiences the casual indifference of stranger and a snub from his closest friend as the same torment."
1010hrs: Conscience urges me outside to find Pete and get in my quota of digging. I have some clay turning to do which I totally balls up.
  • Dug where I should not have done, and too deep, to boot
  • Having been shown where n how to dig, made a total mess of it
  • Given a patch where the lines were already dug, and all I had to do was trim and turn, still made grotesque mess of the whole thing.
  • Slight redemption towards end of day when I managed to be of some minute help over fixing a water connection and later with some shredding and cutting branches.

Flakey, definition of

Dinner conversation came round to the precise meaning of 'flakey', about which none of us was definite or willing to listen to anyone else's interpretation.

Opera Quiz

Calling all self-styled opera buffs ...

What follows "5 ... 10 ... 20 ... 30 ..."

(Answer ~ Think 'Marriage': 36, 43, as in "cinque, dieci venti trenta ... trentasei quarantatre. Got it?

Dec 28:The Andersons to lunch. Joshing and joking and photographs.

Dec 29: eggs n bacon for brek. Almost no sleep now that I'm into post-return nightmares of trawling the job ads.

More threshing and cutting in the garden followed by chatty lunch and siesta and Maugham's Razor's Edge which I'm finding enthralling.

22 December 2004

Some Foreign Field


Visited Dad's grave in the British Cemetery in Corfu.
Seen here, my mother and George Psaila, B.E.M., keeper over 50 years of the Cemetery garden.  Posted by Hello

My father's grave: David Ronald Holmes, Kt, CMG, CBE, MC.
26 Dec 1913-14 June 1981 Posted by Hello

Mum placing the lighted candle on Dad's grave Posted by Hello

Dad's gravestone.
The Greek legend, that you can't read, is a quote from Pindar Posted by Hello

Dec 22 snaps: dogs and views


The ever-suspicious and handsome Sambo. I don't think even a falling leaf escapes his scrutiny.  Posted by Hello

Lucy and Sam in vigilant watchdog mode Posted by Hello

Looking across the roof to our - ugh - neighbors Posted by Hello

Wild Corfiot country, looking towards Albania. Superb clouds. Posted by Hello

Strange skies: sun blazing but storm clouds looming ne'ertheless Posted by Hello

Dec 22 and gorgeous weather Posted by Hello

21 December 2004

L'homme de Loam


Homeward plods the weary worker after a muddy morn's mulching Posted by Hello

I'm wearing Costa's cap and a t-shirt bought direct from the hand of a Suquamish squaw (if paleface is allowed to call 'em that) in that exhibition center they have off the I305 just over Agate Bridge.Posted by Hello

That's *Lord* to you, Kemo Sabbagh

Maman returns from Corfu Town with assorted British newspapers.

I had heard of 'The Thunderer' going tabloid toilet-wards but this is the first time I've seen the desecrated Times.

I am mocked for my excessive high standards and knee-jerk hatred of the Prince of Darkness.

mbragg I flip thru the 'paper' until I come to Dan Sabbagh's piece on Secker scribe mucker Melvyn Bragg and how his In Our Time radio prog notched up 70,000 downloads.

In the Euro-edition I'm reading, the untutored Sabbagh refers to a "Mr" Bragg, apparently unaware that our MB has for some time enjoyed a Lordship, courtesy of this flakey government.

I hurl the rag into the compost patch and call Theodoros for another ouzo.

Thank *goodness* Melvyn's editor, the sainted David Farrer, isn't alive today to see such abysmal standards of reporting. On the other hand, how David would have chuckled with avuncular approval over our Melv's ennoblement.

Good lad, our Melvyn - excellent author to promote, knew how to follow orders. I have two main memories of my time as his book PR:

  • The two of us flying up to Aviemore for a book conference on an airline whose inflight mag included Melvyn's Georges Simenon interview - incl foto of our handsome Wigton whizz . Brushing knees opposite were two dour businessmen who, when they reached the Simenon piece, did a marvelous double-take as they connected the article with the famous nasal tones droning aface.
  • Walking in a threesome down Oxford Street, Melvyn one one side - already one of Britain's most famous faces, thanks to his TV show, 'Arena' - and on the other, fresh from the US, a newly arrived Arena interviewee here to plug the movie version of 'All the President's Men' (another Tom Rosenthal coup).

    Name of Robert Redford.